Independence Day(s) in Costa Rica

September 15 is Costa Rica’s Independence Day. And, although there is only one official Independence Day, there were at least 2 months of preparation for the event. Since late July the “muchachos and muchachas” from every school in and around my community have been practicing for the town’s “comparsa”, which took place on the eve of Independence Day, and the “desfile”, which took place during the morning of Independence Day. Each school had its own drum line and marchers, all of which were dressed in red, white, and/or blue, demonstrating their patriotism. The drum lines especially prepared for the event. Every afternoon and evening the steady beat of drums could be heard in Cortés, which always gave me the feeling that I was going to battle.

The “comparsa” and “desfile” are essentially parades. However, the “comparsa” which takes place at night, is much more informal and is said to be for the “pachangueros” (party-heads/dancers). Basically, anyone who wants to enter in the parade can do so and act a fool. Some of the participants even dress in a type of Halloween costume and wear spooky masks. There is also a torch which is carried from one town to another. The “desfile” is a more formal event, in which all participants wear classic red, white, and blue outfits, and march proudly throughout the town with the Costa Rican flag.

In comparison with Independence Day in the U.S., which in most parts of the country has become a one day event that gives family and friends the opportunity to get together and have a cookout, in Costa Rica (at least where I live), there are activities a week leading up to the actual day of independence. This is called “la Semana Cívica”. In reality, food has little to do with the celebration. I have to admit, I was somewhat disappointed by this statement. I was told that there aren’t “comidas típicas” for Independence Day because everyone is too tired to cook something special due to all the “bulla” leading up to the event.

However, after observing all the activities and the harsh weather in which the participants marched during the parades, I can see why no one would have the energy to do anything else but rest when the final “desfile” is over. During the “comparsa”, it rained, so most people were soaked by the time they reached the town’s center. And during the “desfile”, which took place in the morning, the “sol” was extra “bravo”, so everyone sweated profusely due to the sun’s incessant heat. In fact, many parents walked by their child’s side and supplied cold water while he/she marched.

Overall, it was definitely a cultural experience. I enjoyed it and learned a lot. It was also nice to see members from all parts of my community come together and celebrate Costa Rica’s independence. Next year (si Dios quiere) I plan to be one of the bearers of the torch that eventually makes its way to my town. That gives me something to look forward to for next year’s Independence Day.

Carlos