It has been a while since I made a post about what I have been up to in Costa Rica as a Peace Corps Volunteer. I don’t always write consistently because I am either too busy or having too good of a time. I am still giving English and computer classes, along with my “Economía para el Éxito” class that I give in the local high school every Tuesday afternoon. I do this along with other side projects that I have going and random activities that I do in my community.
Speaking of side projects and activities, lately I have been playing basketball with a group of Ticos in one of the neighboring towns. It’s a pretty good sized group considering Costa Rica is an overwhelmingly soccer country. We usually always have at least 6 players, which is enough to break a good sweat playing 3-on-3. A couple times we had as many as 12 players.
I have to say that while my Spanish is pretty good, it took me a couple of games to get my Spanish basketball vocabulary up to par, as I don’t need to use it very often. I remember the first time the man I was guarding went to set a screen, my first instinct was to shout out “Screen left!” I have super fun learning all of the basketball vocabulary. We say that we have formed a local team and that we are going to travel to Pérez Zeledón, one of the bigger cities in Costa Rica, to compete in “la primera division.” We will see what happens with that. For now, I am happy to get to play basketball about once a week. I consider myself pretty lucky, as I never imagined myself playing basketball during my Peace Corps experience. We are going to try to start a team in the high school. That will be the beginning of my coaching career.
The other activity that I have going on is that I am learning how to dance to some of the “ritmos tropicales”, such as cumbia, merengue, bachata, bolero, and salsa. I go to a dance class once a week. I have never been able to dance well, but after a few classes and going to a few “bailes” I am getting pretty good. La cumbia, or swing, is my favorite ritmo. It’s more playful. I never realized how fun it is to dance. I consider learning how to dance to “los ritmos tropicales” as important as learning the Spanish language. It’s part of the cultural experience. I have been told that a man that cannot dance in a Latin American country isn’t really a man. Furthermore, going to a “baile” and not knowing how to dance to any of the “ritmos” is like going to a basketball game and being injured. You will always be on the sideline and never in the game.
That’s all I have for now. I should have another post up in a few days for my Spanish readers.
Pura Vida,
Carlos
Vista del Gran Río Térraba y la desembocadura al mar
lunes, 1 de noviembre de 2010
jueves, 23 de septiembre de 2010
La Esfera de Silencio
Setiembre 19, 2010
Me levanté a las cinco de la mañana para alistarme para el viaje. Me hice un atol de avena con nuez, papaya, y banano y me fui para la casa de Javier. Empezamos a las 6:30 AM. Aunque se sintieron agotadas las piernas, estaba emocionado de la aventura que nos esperaba y la oportunidad a ver la esfera más grande de todo Costa Rica, La Esfera de Silencio.
Partimos de Ciudad Cortés, rumbo a Palmar Sur donde queda la piedra magnífica. Cruzamos el puente del Gran Río Térraba, construido por los Estados Unidos, y doblamos al este en un camino de lastre, subiendo una cuesta pequeña. El camino era muy lindo.
Nos rodeaban el bosque y arroyos. Vimos una variedad de pájaros y el mono titi. Atravesamos por un sitio donde vivían los indígenas de la zona. Llegamos a un punto del camino, donde había un sendero cubierto de monte y barro. Nos metimos en el sendero, yo siguiendo las direcciones de mi guía y amigo, Javier. En este punto, estábamos en la pura selva. Eventualmente, en este mismo sendero, subimos una pendiente para llegar a un espacio plano donde está la esfera grande, escondida de todo y conocida por pocas, que midió más que yo. Luego de admirarla y sacar fotos de ella, regresamos por el mismo sendero y camino rumbo a Ciudad Cortés. Al final de la travesía, le agradecí a Javier por llevarme a un lugar tan bonito y que tiene una importancia cultural tanto como histórica para la zona y el país.
Toa,
Carlos
Me levanté a las cinco de la mañana para alistarme para el viaje. Me hice un atol de avena con nuez, papaya, y banano y me fui para la casa de Javier. Empezamos a las 6:30 AM. Aunque se sintieron agotadas las piernas, estaba emocionado de la aventura que nos esperaba y la oportunidad a ver la esfera más grande de todo Costa Rica, La Esfera de Silencio.
Partimos de Ciudad Cortés, rumbo a Palmar Sur donde queda la piedra magnífica. Cruzamos el puente del Gran Río Térraba, construido por los Estados Unidos, y doblamos al este en un camino de lastre, subiendo una cuesta pequeña. El camino era muy lindo.
Nos rodeaban el bosque y arroyos. Vimos una variedad de pájaros y el mono titi. Atravesamos por un sitio donde vivían los indígenas de la zona. Llegamos a un punto del camino, donde había un sendero cubierto de monte y barro. Nos metimos en el sendero, yo siguiendo las direcciones de mi guía y amigo, Javier. En este punto, estábamos en la pura selva. Eventualmente, en este mismo sendero, subimos una pendiente para llegar a un espacio plano donde está la esfera grande, escondida de todo y conocida por pocas, que midió más que yo. Luego de admirarla y sacar fotos de ella, regresamos por el mismo sendero y camino rumbo a Ciudad Cortés. Al final de la travesía, le agradecí a Javier por llevarme a un lugar tan bonito y que tiene una importancia cultural tanto como histórica para la zona y el país.
Toa,
Carlos
Dos viajes en bicicleta
12 de Septiembre de 2010
Los últimos dos fines de semana fui en bicicleta con algunos amigos. En el primer viaje, fuimos a Sierpe, un pueblo pequeño conocido por la belleza de sus manglares, ríos, y esteros. Durante la travesía por las Fincas, las cuales son comunidades pequeñas que se fundaron después de la época de la compañía bananera, la United Fruit Company. Es muy interesante pasar por estas comunidades. Muchas de las casas son de dos pisos y tienen una arquitectura claramente influenciada por los norteamericanos. A mi, me parecen como las casas coloniales de los Estados Unidos. Se llaman barracones. Muchos de los barracones fueron las barracas donde vivían los trabajadores bananeros.
Otro hecho fascinante de las Fincas es que se encuentra un sitio arqueológico de los indígenas que habitaban la zona. Todavía se está excavando el lugar, pero se puede ver las esferas, cuales son piedras redondas que miden 1-2 metros de diámetro. Eran esculpidas usando materiales básicas como rocas y madera.
Aunque era un viaje en bicicleta de unos 40 kilómetros, había otras partes, como visitar el sitio arqueológico y pasar por Sierpe, que lo hicieron una verdadera aventura. Dilatamos cuatro horas y media. Regresé bastante cansado pero no tanto como el viaje que hicimos hoy.
En el primer viaje, fuimos tres amigos. Esta vez éramos siete. Parte del camino era de carretera y la otra era de lastre. La de lastre era tortuosa. Subimos algunas cuestas en las cuales no podíamos subir montado. Tuve que desmontarme y llevar la bicicleta. Había una cuesta que se llama “La Matadora”. ¡Que gacho, pero que buen ejercicio! A la vez, subimos muy alto y tuvimos una vista del mar impresionante.
También, oímos los gritos de los congos en el bosque que nos rodeaba.
Después de todas las cuestas, y eventualmente, las bajadas, llegamos otra vez a la carretera. Desde allí, el grupo se separó. Un amigo mío, Javier, y yo continuamos el viaje algunos kilómetros más hasta que llegamos a una playa pequeña que se llama “Ventanas de Osa.” Los otros compañeros se volvieron a Ciudad Cortés. De Ventanas, salimos para la casa y el regreso duró una hora y pico. Veníamos rápidamente. Quien sabe cuantos kilómetros anduvimos hoy, pero les digo que todos fueron de mucha calidad. ¡Casi no puedo levantarme de mi silla! Tal vez aparte del buen ejercicio que hiciera y los lugares lindos que conociera durante esos dos viajes en bicicleta, era más importantes las amistades que hice con los compañeros que fueron conmigo. Espero que pueda hace más viajes así en el futuro.
Los últimos dos fines de semana fui en bicicleta con algunos amigos. En el primer viaje, fuimos a Sierpe, un pueblo pequeño conocido por la belleza de sus manglares, ríos, y esteros. Durante la travesía por las Fincas, las cuales son comunidades pequeñas que se fundaron después de la época de la compañía bananera, la United Fruit Company. Es muy interesante pasar por estas comunidades. Muchas de las casas son de dos pisos y tienen una arquitectura claramente influenciada por los norteamericanos. A mi, me parecen como las casas coloniales de los Estados Unidos. Se llaman barracones. Muchos de los barracones fueron las barracas donde vivían los trabajadores bananeros.
Otro hecho fascinante de las Fincas es que se encuentra un sitio arqueológico de los indígenas que habitaban la zona. Todavía se está excavando el lugar, pero se puede ver las esferas, cuales son piedras redondas que miden 1-2 metros de diámetro. Eran esculpidas usando materiales básicas como rocas y madera.
Aunque era un viaje en bicicleta de unos 40 kilómetros, había otras partes, como visitar el sitio arqueológico y pasar por Sierpe, que lo hicieron una verdadera aventura. Dilatamos cuatro horas y media. Regresé bastante cansado pero no tanto como el viaje que hicimos hoy.
En el primer viaje, fuimos tres amigos. Esta vez éramos siete. Parte del camino era de carretera y la otra era de lastre. La de lastre era tortuosa. Subimos algunas cuestas en las cuales no podíamos subir montado. Tuve que desmontarme y llevar la bicicleta. Había una cuesta que se llama “La Matadora”. ¡Que gacho, pero que buen ejercicio! A la vez, subimos muy alto y tuvimos una vista del mar impresionante.
También, oímos los gritos de los congos en el bosque que nos rodeaba.
Después de todas las cuestas, y eventualmente, las bajadas, llegamos otra vez a la carretera. Desde allí, el grupo se separó. Un amigo mío, Javier, y yo continuamos el viaje algunos kilómetros más hasta que llegamos a una playa pequeña que se llama “Ventanas de Osa.” Los otros compañeros se volvieron a Ciudad Cortés. De Ventanas, salimos para la casa y el regreso duró una hora y pico. Veníamos rápidamente. Quien sabe cuantos kilómetros anduvimos hoy, pero les digo que todos fueron de mucha calidad. ¡Casi no puedo levantarme de mi silla! Tal vez aparte del buen ejercicio que hiciera y los lugares lindos que conociera durante esos dos viajes en bicicleta, era más importantes las amistades que hice con los compañeros que fueron conmigo. Espero que pueda hace más viajes así en el futuro.
sábado, 18 de septiembre de 2010
Andando en bici #2
Today, my friend Roy and I went to the beach riding our bikes. In total, the trip took us 2 hours to get there and return to Cortés. I was pleased that we could complete the trip in such a short time. The beach is called Ventanas, which gets its name from the caves that can be explored when the tide is low. It’s a small, authentic Costa Rican beach, with little to no tourists. It’s one of my favorites. When we got there, we took a 30 minute rest, watching the waves crash against the jagged rocks that jet out from both sides of the beach.
When I met up with Roy at the local pulpería to start the trip, I doubted if he was prepared, as he was wearing sandals, a t-shirt, and shorts without a bottle of water. I was decked out in my biking gear and tennis shoes. We joked that while I prepared for the “viaje”, he prepared for the destination of the “viaje”. I have to say, appearances definitely can be deceiving. He was able to ride up the steep parts of the trip with ease!
Ironically, as I was writing this post another biking friend of mine, Javier, called me asking if I was interested in taking a cycling trip tomorrow to a town called “Punta Mala.” Although my legs are pretty tired from today’s trip, I can’t turn down the opportunity for another adventure!
Carlos
When I met up with Roy at the local pulpería to start the trip, I doubted if he was prepared, as he was wearing sandals, a t-shirt, and shorts without a bottle of water. I was decked out in my biking gear and tennis shoes. We joked that while I prepared for the “viaje”, he prepared for the destination of the “viaje”. I have to say, appearances definitely can be deceiving. He was able to ride up the steep parts of the trip with ease!
Ironically, as I was writing this post another biking friend of mine, Javier, called me asking if I was interested in taking a cycling trip tomorrow to a town called “Punta Mala.” Although my legs are pretty tired from today’s trip, I can’t turn down the opportunity for another adventure!
Carlos
miércoles, 15 de septiembre de 2010
Independence Day(s) in Costa Rica
September 15 is Costa Rica’s Independence Day. And, although there is only one official Independence Day, there were at least 2 months of preparation for the event. Since late July the “muchachos and muchachas” from every school in and around my community have been practicing for the town’s “comparsa”, which took place on the eve of Independence Day, and the “desfile”, which took place during the morning of Independence Day. Each school had its own drum line and marchers, all of which were dressed in red, white, and/or blue, demonstrating their patriotism. The drum lines especially prepared for the event. Every afternoon and evening the steady beat of drums could be heard in Cortés, which always gave me the feeling that I was going to battle.
The “comparsa” and “desfile” are essentially parades. However, the “comparsa” which takes place at night, is much more informal and is said to be for the “pachangueros” (party-heads/dancers). Basically, anyone who wants to enter in the parade can do so and act a fool. Some of the participants even dress in a type of Halloween costume and wear spooky masks. There is also a torch which is carried from one town to another. The “desfile” is a more formal event, in which all participants wear classic red, white, and blue outfits, and march proudly throughout the town with the Costa Rican flag.
In comparison with Independence Day in the U.S., which in most parts of the country has become a one day event that gives family and friends the opportunity to get together and have a cookout, in Costa Rica (at least where I live), there are activities a week leading up to the actual day of independence. This is called “la Semana Cívica”. In reality, food has little to do with the celebration. I have to admit, I was somewhat disappointed by this statement. I was told that there aren’t “comidas típicas” for Independence Day because everyone is too tired to cook something special due to all the “bulla” leading up to the event.
However, after observing all the activities and the harsh weather in which the participants marched during the parades, I can see why no one would have the energy to do anything else but rest when the final “desfile” is over. During the “comparsa”, it rained, so most people were soaked by the time they reached the town’s center. And during the “desfile”, which took place in the morning, the “sol” was extra “bravo”, so everyone sweated profusely due to the sun’s incessant heat. In fact, many parents walked by their child’s side and supplied cold water while he/she marched.
Overall, it was definitely a cultural experience. I enjoyed it and learned a lot. It was also nice to see members from all parts of my community come together and celebrate Costa Rica’s independence. Next year (si Dios quiere) I plan to be one of the bearers of the torch that eventually makes its way to my town. That gives me something to look forward to for next year’s Independence Day.
Carlos
The “comparsa” and “desfile” are essentially parades. However, the “comparsa” which takes place at night, is much more informal and is said to be for the “pachangueros” (party-heads/dancers). Basically, anyone who wants to enter in the parade can do so and act a fool. Some of the participants even dress in a type of Halloween costume and wear spooky masks. There is also a torch which is carried from one town to another. The “desfile” is a more formal event, in which all participants wear classic red, white, and blue outfits, and march proudly throughout the town with the Costa Rican flag.
In comparison with Independence Day in the U.S., which in most parts of the country has become a one day event that gives family and friends the opportunity to get together and have a cookout, in Costa Rica (at least where I live), there are activities a week leading up to the actual day of independence. This is called “la Semana Cívica”. In reality, food has little to do with the celebration. I have to admit, I was somewhat disappointed by this statement. I was told that there aren’t “comidas típicas” for Independence Day because everyone is too tired to cook something special due to all the “bulla” leading up to the event.
However, after observing all the activities and the harsh weather in which the participants marched during the parades, I can see why no one would have the energy to do anything else but rest when the final “desfile” is over. During the “comparsa”, it rained, so most people were soaked by the time they reached the town’s center. And during the “desfile”, which took place in the morning, the “sol” was extra “bravo”, so everyone sweated profusely due to the sun’s incessant heat. In fact, many parents walked by their child’s side and supplied cold water while he/she marched.
Overall, it was definitely a cultural experience. I enjoyed it and learned a lot. It was also nice to see members from all parts of my community come together and celebrate Costa Rica’s independence. Next year (si Dios quiere) I plan to be one of the bearers of the torch that eventually makes its way to my town. That gives me something to look forward to for next year’s Independence Day.
Carlos
viernes, 10 de septiembre de 2010
Anécdota #1
En los Estados Unidos cortaba la mora y la frambuesa en las orillas de los caminos. En Costa Rica, cojo la papaya y la pipa.
En los Estados Unidos, pescaba con la caña en un lago, pero en Costa Rica, pesco con bolillos en el mar o un estero.
En los Estados Unidos, cuando los zapatos se rompen, vamos rumbo al “mall” y nos compramos nuevos. En Costa Rica, pues, por lo menos en mi comunidad, cuando se rompen, vamos rumbo a la zapatería para que los arregle. Es igual con la ropa.
En los Estados Unidos, mi juego favorito era “Scrabble” y lo jugaba con mi familia. En Costa Rica, irónicamente, lo juego con mi familia también, pero lo llamamos “Letras”.
En los Estados Unidos, muchísima gente tiene sistemas electrónicos para vigilar su casa. En Costa Rica, el sistema es meter un perro bravo en el corredor.
En los Estados Unidos, durante habla común decimos “dude” y en España, se dice “tío”. Pero en Costa Rica, decimos “Mae” y “bicho”.
En los Estados Unidos, para decir que algo es muy bueno, muchas veces se dice “Nice!”. En Costa Rica decimos “¡Tuanis!”
En los Estados Unidos, todo el mundo tiene un carro. En Ciudad Cortés, toda la comunidad tiene una bicicleta.
En los Estados Unidos, reina el fútbol americano. En Costa Rica, reina el fútbol.
En los Estados Unidos, se chapea el zacate con el cortacésped. En Costa Rica, lo chapeamos con el machete.
En los Estados Unidos, especialmente en las zonas rurales, los campesinos saludan amigablemente con la mano y a veces gritan “Hey!”. En Costa Rica, generalmente saludan igual pero gritan “¡Ey!”.
En los Estados Unidos, casi cada mañana comía un atol de avena para el desayuno. Aquí, en Costa Rica, como el gallo pinto con huevo.
En los Estados Unidos, durante los fines de semana, a menudo familias tienen una barbacoa. En Ciudad Cortés, los vecinos preparan ollas de carne o un ceviche de pianguas.
Estos son algunas de las semejanzas y diferencias entre Estados Unidos y Costa Rica. Puedo continuar con la lista, pero no tengo tanto tiempo. Tal vez, lo haga otro día. Espero que lo disfrutara.
Pura Vida,
Carlos
sábado, 4 de septiembre de 2010
Andando en bici #1
In my community, the bicycle is the number one mode of transportation. At the elementary schools and high school, instead of the “parking lot” being full with cars as it is in the U.S., in Ciudad Cortés, it is full with bicycles. Most bicis are equipped with a “canasta” or “maletero”, which are essential to haul all types of cargo. We carry something as simple as a bag of groceries from “la pulpería” or a sack of “arroz” from the “arrozal”. My bike has the maletero, which is attached to the back of the bici. Also, many people put “guardabarros” around their tires so when they “andan” in the rain, they don’t have a strip of mud across their back. Unfortunately, my bike doesn’t have a place to put “guardabarros”.
It’s quite flat throughout most of the town and save for a couple of paved main roads, most roads are dirt and gravel (lastre). I have not ever timed myself to confirm how much I ride my bike per day to get from place to place, meeting to meeting, or class to class, but I would say at least 30-45 minutes per day. Since we are currently in “invierno”, which is the rainy season for Costa Rica, one has to get accustomed to “andar” in some of the more unfavorable circumstances. Like most people in my community, I try to avoid leaving the house when it rains, as I don’t want to “mojarme”. In fact, when it downpours in Cortés, I like to compare the community to a ghost town because everyone seems to be hiding until the rain stops.
However, there are certain circumstances when there is no “vuelta de hoja”, and I have to get to a certain place at a specific time, and it just happens to be raining cats and dogs (aguacero). It could be my imagination, but this seems to happen to me often, especially when I have an English class or a meeting with the local ECC. For this reason, I have mastered the art of riding my bike with one hand on the handlebar and the other holding the “sombirlla”. I also throw on a poncho or raincoat and even plastic bags to cover my shoes so I don’t have wet feet. I’m not the only person that does this in my community.
The other night, I took my bike riding experiences in the rain to a new level. I only had my “sombrilla” and it was raining “duro”. I did not have plastic bags or a poncho. What was I to do? Determined not to make it home drenched, I decided to ride back home barefoot so I would not soak my shoes. When I got home I felt like I had won a championship because my feet were not drenched. It’s safe to say that a Peace Corps volunteer learns to be quite crafty in some of the most peculiar situations.
There is much more to say about my bici riding experience in my community, so I will be sure to write more in the future. More to come soon from "El Chile de Costa Rica"
Pura vida,
Carlos
It’s quite flat throughout most of the town and save for a couple of paved main roads, most roads are dirt and gravel (lastre). I have not ever timed myself to confirm how much I ride my bike per day to get from place to place, meeting to meeting, or class to class, but I would say at least 30-45 minutes per day. Since we are currently in “invierno”, which is the rainy season for Costa Rica, one has to get accustomed to “andar” in some of the more unfavorable circumstances. Like most people in my community, I try to avoid leaving the house when it rains, as I don’t want to “mojarme”. In fact, when it downpours in Cortés, I like to compare the community to a ghost town because everyone seems to be hiding until the rain stops.
However, there are certain circumstances when there is no “vuelta de hoja”, and I have to get to a certain place at a specific time, and it just happens to be raining cats and dogs (aguacero). It could be my imagination, but this seems to happen to me often, especially when I have an English class or a meeting with the local ECC. For this reason, I have mastered the art of riding my bike with one hand on the handlebar and the other holding the “sombirlla”. I also throw on a poncho or raincoat and even plastic bags to cover my shoes so I don’t have wet feet. I’m not the only person that does this in my community.
The other night, I took my bike riding experiences in the rain to a new level. I only had my “sombrilla” and it was raining “duro”. I did not have plastic bags or a poncho. What was I to do? Determined not to make it home drenched, I decided to ride back home barefoot so I would not soak my shoes. When I got home I felt like I had won a championship because my feet were not drenched. It’s safe to say that a Peace Corps volunteer learns to be quite crafty in some of the most peculiar situations.
There is much more to say about my bici riding experience in my community, so I will be sure to write more in the future. More to come soon from "El Chile de Costa Rica"
Pura vida,
Carlos
domingo, 22 de agosto de 2010
La Romería
2 de Agosto de 2010
La Romería es un peregrinaje católico en Costa Rica, en lo cual miles de costarricenses acuden a la basílica de Nuestra Señora Los Ángeles, en Cartago, para rendir homenaje a la Negrita, la Santa Negra. Los romeros, o peregrinos, empiezan a peregrinar de todas partes del país para eventualmente llegar a Cartago el dos de agosto. Algunos romeros comienzan la travesía hasta una semana antes del dos de agosto, caminando 280 kilómetros, atravesando por terrenos y climas de todos tipos. Participé en este evento cultural con algunos amigos costarricenses.
No peregrinamos 280 kilómetros, sin embargo nuestro camino no era fácil. Partimos de Tarbaca, lo cual se ubica en las afueras de San José en las montañas, a las seis de la mañana. Porque mi sitio como un voluntario está en el sur del país y hace un tanate de calor, me costó acostumbrarme al clima fresco de Tarbaca en el inicio de la caminata. Me vestí en ropa larga para calentarme un poquito. Nos bajamos del cerro de Tarbaca, pasando por los suburbios de Aserrí y Desamparados, para eventualmente llegar a la carretera principal donde andaban en pelota el resto de los romeros, rumbo a Cartago. Como los indígenas, comimos pejibayes cuando teníamos hambre durante el viaje.
Aunque dije que los peregrinos caminan hacia Cartago, realmente la gente se va en todos tipos de formas. Hay romeros jinetes, romeros ciclistas, romeros motociclistas, romeros atléticos, romeros bebes que van en coche, etc. Además, aunque dije que es un evento católico, muchas de las personas que lo hacen, no son católicos. Por sí, algunos no tiene religión. Un peregrino me dijo a lo largo del camino que lo estaba haciendo por la tradición familiar, diversión, y ejercicio de la caminata.
Duramos 6 horas para llegar a la basílica, donde estuvieron todos los peregrinos - algunos descansando en el parque frente a la iglesia y otros haciendo fila para entrar. Hubo dos filas: una para entrar de pie y la otra para entrar de rodillas. Los que entraron de rodillas, se hincaron y se arrastraron en el suelo hasta que llegaron a la figura de la Negrita. La idea era que los peregrinos hicieran un sacrificio para la negrita o la ofrecieran algo. Entré de pie.
Y como uno hubiera predicho, siempre hay negocios que aprovechan de eventos como esto, promocionando sus productos en el nombre de los romeros y la Negrita. Es decir, mucha comercialización. Asimismo, había una gran cantidad de vendedores de comida, ropa, agua bendecida, eincluso lugares para recibir masajes para esos músculos y huesos que le dolían en el camino.
Aparte de ser algo espiritual, sentí, también, que la romería era un evento recreativo y comunitario, en lo que todos costarricenses - bebes hasta adultos - se reunieron a la vez para compartir. Estoy agradecido para poder hacer la romería con amigos y entender los muchos significativos de esta peregrinación en Costa Rica. Quiero hacerlo el próximo año, pero tal vez, empezando de Ciudad Cortés. ¡Eso sería una tregua! No sé si lo aguantaría.
Carlos
La Romería es un peregrinaje católico en Costa Rica, en lo cual miles de costarricenses acuden a la basílica de Nuestra Señora Los Ángeles, en Cartago, para rendir homenaje a la Negrita, la Santa Negra. Los romeros, o peregrinos, empiezan a peregrinar de todas partes del país para eventualmente llegar a Cartago el dos de agosto. Algunos romeros comienzan la travesía hasta una semana antes del dos de agosto, caminando 280 kilómetros, atravesando por terrenos y climas de todos tipos. Participé en este evento cultural con algunos amigos costarricenses.
No peregrinamos 280 kilómetros, sin embargo nuestro camino no era fácil. Partimos de Tarbaca, lo cual se ubica en las afueras de San José en las montañas, a las seis de la mañana. Porque mi sitio como un voluntario está en el sur del país y hace un tanate de calor, me costó acostumbrarme al clima fresco de Tarbaca en el inicio de la caminata. Me vestí en ropa larga para calentarme un poquito. Nos bajamos del cerro de Tarbaca, pasando por los suburbios de Aserrí y Desamparados, para eventualmente llegar a la carretera principal donde andaban en pelota el resto de los romeros, rumbo a Cartago. Como los indígenas, comimos pejibayes cuando teníamos hambre durante el viaje.
Aunque dije que los peregrinos caminan hacia Cartago, realmente la gente se va en todos tipos de formas. Hay romeros jinetes, romeros ciclistas, romeros motociclistas, romeros atléticos, romeros bebes que van en coche, etc. Además, aunque dije que es un evento católico, muchas de las personas que lo hacen, no son católicos. Por sí, algunos no tiene religión. Un peregrino me dijo a lo largo del camino que lo estaba haciendo por la tradición familiar, diversión, y ejercicio de la caminata.
Duramos 6 horas para llegar a la basílica, donde estuvieron todos los peregrinos - algunos descansando en el parque frente a la iglesia y otros haciendo fila para entrar. Hubo dos filas: una para entrar de pie y la otra para entrar de rodillas. Los que entraron de rodillas, se hincaron y se arrastraron en el suelo hasta que llegaron a la figura de la Negrita. La idea era que los peregrinos hicieran un sacrificio para la negrita o la ofrecieran algo. Entré de pie.
Y como uno hubiera predicho, siempre hay negocios que aprovechan de eventos como esto, promocionando sus productos en el nombre de los romeros y la Negrita. Es decir, mucha comercialización. Asimismo, había una gran cantidad de vendedores de comida, ropa, agua bendecida, eincluso lugares para recibir masajes para esos músculos y huesos que le dolían en el camino.
Aparte de ser algo espiritual, sentí, también, que la romería era un evento recreativo y comunitario, en lo que todos costarricenses - bebes hasta adultos - se reunieron a la vez para compartir. Estoy agradecido para poder hacer la romería con amigos y entender los muchos significativos de esta peregrinación en Costa Rica. Quiero hacerlo el próximo año, pero tal vez, empezando de Ciudad Cortés. ¡Eso sería una tregua! No sé si lo aguantaría.
Carlos
viernes, 20 de agosto de 2010
¿Qué se hizo?
So I know it’s been a while since I have posted, but I can assure you it has not been due to a lack of things to say. It’s actually due to a lack of time to sit down and write. These past couple weeks I have been busy with my work. During the first three months of being a volunteer in our community, one of our “jobs” is to write a Community Analysis Tool (CAT), which is basically a research paper on our community. It touches on everything: history, demographics, organizations and groups in the community, geography, etc. I put “job” in parenthesis because for me it wasn’t really a job. I enjoy doing field research. My CAT ended up being 42 pages all in Spanish. I am going to continue editing it throughout my service, as I will always learn something knew about where I live.
I have also been helping out with the local Empresa de Crédito Comunal, which is a type of micro-finance group in my community, teaching English two times a week, and helping out with music classes in a local school. We are almost ready to start giving individual music lessons. Of course, I have gone fishing a few times and taken a couple trips to the local beaches as well. Usually everyday here is an adventure.
In the near future, I’m going to post some blogs in Spanish for my Spanish-speaking audience. Also, be on the lookout for some new pictures. OK. That’s a small update for now.
Solo bueno,
Carlos
I have also been helping out with the local Empresa de Crédito Comunal, which is a type of micro-finance group in my community, teaching English two times a week, and helping out with music classes in a local school. We are almost ready to start giving individual music lessons. Of course, I have gone fishing a few times and taken a couple trips to the local beaches as well. Usually everyday here is an adventure.
In the near future, I’m going to post some blogs in Spanish for my Spanish-speaking audience. Also, be on the lookout for some new pictures. OK. That’s a small update for now.
Solo bueno,
Carlos
jueves, 29 de julio de 2010
Reacciones del Mundial desde Costa Rica
Reacciones del Mundial desde Costa Rica
When I found out that I would be living in a Latin American country during the World Cup, I was pretty excited. I imagined that the atmosphere in Costa Rica would be similar to that of March Madness in the United States. I have to say that I was somewhat disappointed, but I have to admit, if my country did not qualify for the World Cup I probably would not show too much interest either. I expected a celebratory atmosphere during the World Cup games, with large get-togethers of friends and family watching the games. In years past, when Costa Rica had qualified for the World Cup, this was the case. This World Cup was obviously a different story, as Costa Rica did not qualify.
All in all, however, it is clear that Costa Rica is a soccer playing country. Every morning during the World Cup games, community members were pegged to the television set watching every play attentively. This was especially evident when the big name teams like Brazil, Spain, or Portugal played. One pulperia owner even said that she had experienced less business due to the World Cup games.
I found it interesting the amount of Costa Ricans that were cheering for European teams instead of Latin American teams throughout the World Cup. The majority of community members I talked with rooted for Holland instead of Spain in the final game, even though Spain is a Spanish speaking country and has way more in common in terms of culture than Holland.
The last observation I made perhaps worth noting was the amount of attention given to Costa Rican soccer during the World Cup and the disillusionment of Costa Ricans because their team did not qualify. It seemed like every day in “La Nación” I would read a headline that asked what went wrong for Costa Rica for the team not to qualify, what the team will need to do to qualify for the next World Cup, and what Costa Rican players were doing during the World Cup games. It reminded me of the disappointment I experience when one of my sports teams in the U.S. does not make the NBA Playoffs or make it in to the Field of 64 for March Madness. Unfortunately, I guess disappointment is one thing sportsfans all around the world share.
Carlos
When I found out that I would be living in a Latin American country during the World Cup, I was pretty excited. I imagined that the atmosphere in Costa Rica would be similar to that of March Madness in the United States. I have to say that I was somewhat disappointed, but I have to admit, if my country did not qualify for the World Cup I probably would not show too much interest either. I expected a celebratory atmosphere during the World Cup games, with large get-togethers of friends and family watching the games. In years past, when Costa Rica had qualified for the World Cup, this was the case. This World Cup was obviously a different story, as Costa Rica did not qualify.
All in all, however, it is clear that Costa Rica is a soccer playing country. Every morning during the World Cup games, community members were pegged to the television set watching every play attentively. This was especially evident when the big name teams like Brazil, Spain, or Portugal played. One pulperia owner even said that she had experienced less business due to the World Cup games.
I found it interesting the amount of Costa Ricans that were cheering for European teams instead of Latin American teams throughout the World Cup. The majority of community members I talked with rooted for Holland instead of Spain in the final game, even though Spain is a Spanish speaking country and has way more in common in terms of culture than Holland.
The last observation I made perhaps worth noting was the amount of attention given to Costa Rican soccer during the World Cup and the disillusionment of Costa Ricans because their team did not qualify. It seemed like every day in “La Nación” I would read a headline that asked what went wrong for Costa Rica for the team not to qualify, what the team will need to do to qualify for the next World Cup, and what Costa Rican players were doing during the World Cup games. It reminded me of the disappointment I experience when one of my sports teams in the U.S. does not make the NBA Playoffs or make it in to the Field of 64 for March Madness. Unfortunately, I guess disappointment is one thing sportsfans all around the world share.
Carlos
domingo, 25 de julio de 2010
Pescando en los esteros
Although fishing for a living in Ciudad Cortes is not as popular as it was in the past, fishing still is one of the favorite pass times for many in the community. El Gran Rio Terraba, the largest river in Costa Rica, passes through Cortes and eventually empties out into the Pacific Ocean. Cortes also is full of estuaries and mangroves which house an abundance of wildlife. I consider myself lucky to live in a fishing community, as I really enjoy doing it too.
I recently went on a fishing trip to the estuaries with one of my friends. It was an adventure. To get to the estuaries, we traveled first on bike through dirt gravel roads through the rice parcels, small farmers' fincas, and pastures of cattle. Eventually we reached a barbwire fence, which we crossed leaving our bikes behind. We traversed lagoons, marshy pastures with cattle, and small creaks along the way.
On this particular fishing trip, we fished with "camaron" (shrimp), which live in swampy ponds and lagoons. In the US, I was accustomed to fishing with "lombrices" (worms), which I think it is safe to say are much easier to find than camarones. We were able to find camarones after scavenging and scraping through various murky ponds. We used a mesh net, which we dragged on the bottom of the ponds to catch the camarones. It was a muddy muddy job, and I'm probably leaving out a lot of details. I actually enjoyed it and I learned a lot. It took about an hour to get sufficient an amount of bait. When my friend told me we would find camarones in some of the lagoons, I was quite surprised that life could exist there, but he was right.
We reached the estuaries at about 8:30 am, which was perfect timing as the tide was low. This means that all of the fish that came in on the high tide will be leaving the estuaries, which gives one a better chance to catch something. It's also good to be fishing when the tide is rising, as fish will be coming in to the estuary looking for food. In short, to fish successfully in the estuaries everything depends on the tides, which took me a while to understand.
We fish using "bolillos", which I think I will save the description of how they are made and how they are used for a future post. It is an art and is something I had to practice a lot, but I am getting pretty good with using them. It is way different than the poles we use in the US. I almost like "bolillos" more than poles. It has a more personal feel to it.
The trip was an overall success. We caught six "pargo", which came in on the high tide. These things are delicious fried. I even eat the eyes. Cleaning them is easy, however, they have some prickly scales that must be scraped off before cooking them.
It's hard to include every detail, but I assure you that it was a heck of a time. Scroll to the bottom of the page to see some pictures of the trip. I usually don't take my camera along when I go fishing here, but I took it with me this time.
I recently went on a fishing trip to the estuaries with one of my friends. It was an adventure. To get to the estuaries, we traveled first on bike through dirt gravel roads through the rice parcels, small farmers' fincas, and pastures of cattle. Eventually we reached a barbwire fence, which we crossed leaving our bikes behind. We traversed lagoons, marshy pastures with cattle, and small creaks along the way.
On this particular fishing trip, we fished with "camaron" (shrimp), which live in swampy ponds and lagoons. In the US, I was accustomed to fishing with "lombrices" (worms), which I think it is safe to say are much easier to find than camarones. We were able to find camarones after scavenging and scraping through various murky ponds. We used a mesh net, which we dragged on the bottom of the ponds to catch the camarones. It was a muddy muddy job, and I'm probably leaving out a lot of details. I actually enjoyed it and I learned a lot. It took about an hour to get sufficient an amount of bait. When my friend told me we would find camarones in some of the lagoons, I was quite surprised that life could exist there, but he was right.
We reached the estuaries at about 8:30 am, which was perfect timing as the tide was low. This means that all of the fish that came in on the high tide will be leaving the estuaries, which gives one a better chance to catch something. It's also good to be fishing when the tide is rising, as fish will be coming in to the estuary looking for food. In short, to fish successfully in the estuaries everything depends on the tides, which took me a while to understand.
We fish using "bolillos", which I think I will save the description of how they are made and how they are used for a future post. It is an art and is something I had to practice a lot, but I am getting pretty good with using them. It is way different than the poles we use in the US. I almost like "bolillos" more than poles. It has a more personal feel to it.
The trip was an overall success. We caught six "pargo", which came in on the high tide. These things are delicious fried. I even eat the eyes. Cleaning them is easy, however, they have some prickly scales that must be scraped off before cooking them.
It's hard to include every detail, but I assure you that it was a heck of a time. Scroll to the bottom of the page to see some pictures of the trip. I usually don't take my camera along when I go fishing here, but I took it with me this time.
jueves, 22 de julio de 2010
Costarriqueñismo #1 - "Ponerse al Chaine" and "Chapear"
I was hanging out with my friends who are owners of one of the local Panaderías this morning when one of them taught me a new phrase. I got my hair cut the other day and he told me that "se puso al chaine", meaning that I made a change to my hair, or I cut my hair. If you know anything about Spanish pronunciation you may see or hear the resemblance between the words "chaine" and "change." This is one of the many Anglicisms of the Spanish language here in Costa Rica - perhaps in much of Latin America. It would be interesting to know if the phrase exists in other parts of the Spanish speaking world. However, my friend assured me that it only exists in Costa Rica.
Another Costarriqueñismo would be "chapear", which is a frequently used verb to describe the workers in the "campo" cutting weeds and vegetation with the machete. I could be wrong on the origin of the word, but I would bet that it comes from the English word "chop". Once again, I am curious to know if it is used in other parts of Latin America.
The Anglicism of the Spanish language is a somewhat contentious topic in Costa Rica, especially among intellectuals. I find it interesting. I plan to post more Costarriqueñismos in the future, so be on the lookout for them. And before I forget, Costarriqueñismos do not always signify a word borrowed from English, as it can also be a word specifically used here in Costa Rica.
Carlos
Another Costarriqueñismo would be "chapear", which is a frequently used verb to describe the workers in the "campo" cutting weeds and vegetation with the machete. I could be wrong on the origin of the word, but I would bet that it comes from the English word "chop". Once again, I am curious to know if it is used in other parts of Latin America.
The Anglicism of the Spanish language is a somewhat contentious topic in Costa Rica, especially among intellectuals. I find it interesting. I plan to post more Costarriqueñismos in the future, so be on the lookout for them. And before I forget, Costarriqueñismos do not always signify a word borrowed from English, as it can also be a word specifically used here in Costa Rica.
Carlos
miércoles, 21 de julio de 2010
In Costa Rica, "el chile" or "al chile?" means "la verdad" or "de verdad?". When translated to English, it more or less means "the truth" or "really?", depending on the context in which the phrase is used.
Having clarified the tentative name of my blog, I hope all readers of "El Chile de Costa Rica" enjoy its content. I cannot guarantee that I will write daily, but I promise to keep it updated as much as I can.
Toa,
Carlos
Having clarified the tentative name of my blog, I hope all readers of "El Chile de Costa Rica" enjoy its content. I cannot guarantee that I will write daily, but I promise to keep it updated as much as I can.
Toa,
Carlos
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